- BAZMAAWURD - "chicken roll-ups"
Charles Perry wrote:
- "This giant canapé was the traditional first course at a banquet in pre-Islamic Iran or Abbasid Baghdad. The name comes from the Persian bazm, “banquet,” and awurd, “bringing”. The recipe given here is from the collection of the Caliph al-Ma’mun. It calls for the flesh of citron, a fruit with very little flesh - we know it mostly for its candied peel. Lemon is an obvious substitute."
----- "Cooking with the Caliphs", Saudi Aramco World, July/August 2006, Volume 57, Number 4. Originally in al-Kitab al-Tabikh by al-Warraq
- I did not have the original recipe at the time i made the feast, so i trusted Charles Perry's interpretation. I did alter quantities and proportions of ingredients to suit my taste.
- I now have it, in the recently published Annals of the Caliphs' Kitchens, translated and annotated by Nawal Nasrallah
- Bazmâward with citron pulp called al-Ma’muni
Chop cooked chicken and spread it on ruqâq [bread as thin as textiles]. Let there be underneath the chicken some skinned walnuts, citron pulp, mint, tarragon, basil, and salt. Roll up the bread.
- MY VERSION:
- 2 lavash (Perry also suggests: Mexican flour tortillas or other fresh thin flatbreads), about 12" diameter
- 2 whole chicken breasts, cooked, boned and chopped/shredded
- 4 tablespoons chopped walnuts
- 3 to 4 lemons, peeled, seeded and chopped
- 2 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
- 2 tablespoon chopped mint
- 1/4 cup chopped basil
- Spread both flatbreads separately on work surface.
- Sprinkle each evenly all over with chicken, walnuts, chopped lemon, tarragon, mint and basil.
- Roll up carefully but firmly and place on serving plate
- Cut each roll into 6 slices.
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- ZAITUN MUBAKHKHAR - Smoked Spiced Olives
ORIGINAL
- Take olives when fully ripe. If you want take them black, and if you want take them green, except that the green are better for smoking. Bruise them and put some salt on them, as much as needed, and turn them over every day until the bitterness goes away. When they throw off liquid, pour it off. When the bitterness is gone from them, spread them out on a woven tray until quite dry.
Then pound peeled garlic and cleaned thyme, as much as necessary. Take the quantity of a dirham of them, and a piece of walnut with its meat in it, and a dirham of wax, and a piece of cotton immersed in sesame oil, and a piece of date seed. Put these ingredients on a low fire on a stove [kanun] and seal its door, and put the tray the olives are in on top of it, and cover it with a tray so that it is filled with the scent of this smoke, which does not escape. Then leave it that way for a whole day.
Then you return them to a container large enough for them and mix the pounded garlic and thyme with them, and a little crushed walnut meat, and a handful of toasted sesame seeds. Take as much fresh sesame oil as needed and fry it with cumin seeds, and throw them on it and mix them with it.
Then take a greased pottery jug [barniyya] and smoke it in that smoke. Put the olives in it and
cover the top, and it is put up for [several] days. It is not used until the sharpness of the garlic in it is broken.
----- The Book of the Description of Familiar Foods (in Medieval Arab Cookery, p. 403)
- As I don't have the necessary equipment to smoke the olives, I added a few drops of smoke flavor to the drained olives.
MY VERSION:
- 1 pound mixed black, purple, and green olives
- a few drops smoke flavoring
- 2 cloves garlic, peeled
- a couple teaspoons dried thyme or zataar herb
- 1/4 cup shelled walnuts
- 1/4 cup white sesame seeds
- 2 teaspoons light sesame oil
- 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
- Drain olives well.
- Add a few drops of smoke flavoring to the drained olives. Be sure to mix very very well.
- Crush garlic cloves.
- Add thyme to garlic and crush further.
- Add garlic and thyme to olives. Blend well.
- Crush walnuts medium-fine in a mortar with a pestle. Add to olives and mix well.
- Toast sesame seeds in a frying pan with NO oil, over medium to medium-low heat, stirring very very frequently, until toasted fairly evenly to a rich gold. Add to olives and mix well.
- Put 2 tsp. sesame oil in frying pan, add whole cumin seeds, and cook on medium to medium-low heat until cumin darkens slightly and aroma comes out. Be careful not to burn. Stir into olives.
- Taste and adjust seasonings.
- Best if olives season for several days well covered in a cool place, stirring once a day to distribute flavorings.
NOTE: It is difficult to find plain zataar herb. Every shop I visited that had zataar had the kind that was a blend of zataar herb, salt, sesame seeds, and sumak. This blend is not suitable for this recipe. A friend of mine of Lebanese descent suggested I try the herb called "Greek oregano". This is NOT the standard oregano sold in supermarkets, which is "Mexican oregano" and which flavor I do not like. I did see "Greek oregano" in some of the Near Eastern markets and will try it when I make these olives again, which I most definitely will, as they were delicious.
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- SALS ABYAD = "White Sauce" - Spiced Walnut-Sesame Butter
The name of this dish is from a European word for "sauce" (from Latin? from French?). The recipe is purely Near Eastern, however. Mustard was used to spike up some dishes. In Southwest Asia cooks used powdered mustard seed, while in al-Andalus and al-Maghrib they used prepared mustard.
ORIGINAL
- Walnuts, garlic, pepper, Chinese cinnamon, white mustard, tahineh and lemon juice.
----- Book of the Description of Familiar Foods (in Medieval Arab Cookery, p. 389)
- MY VERSION:
- 1/2 pound walnuts
- 2 cups sesame tahini from a Middle Eastern store - health food sesame paste doesn't work as well
- several cloves garlic (i was a bit more moderate for the feast than i'd be for personal use)
- 3/4 tsp pepper
- 3/4 tsp powdered cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 2 tsp-1 Tb yellow mustard powder
- juice from 2 lemons
- water as needed
- more lemon juice as needed
- Grind walnuts finely.
- Mix together garlic, pepper, cinnamon, mustard, and walnuts.
- Mix walnuts into tahini
- Stir in the lemon juice and water until the consistency of a dip.
- Let stand several hours or overnight for flavors to develop.
- Shortly before serving add more water, if needed, and more fresh lemon juice, a bit at a time, to get the consistency of modern hummos-bi-tahini. I don't recall how much more i used.
Note: This turns purple because of the walnuts. Perhaps if they are peeled first, the dish will be whiter.
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- SHÎRÂZ BI-BUQAL - Drained Curds with Herbs
ORIGINAL
- This is an excellent relish which both awakens and stimulates the appetite. Take mint, celery and vegetable leeks: strip the leaves of the celery and mint. Chop all fine with a knife, then pound in the mortar. Mix well with dried curds, and sprinkle with salt to taste and fine ground mustard. Garnish with coarse chopped walnuts and serve. If dry curds are not available, use instead coagulated milk from which the water has been strained, mix with a little sour milk, and serve.
----- Kitab al-Tabikh by al-Baghdadi, 1226 CE
- MY VERSION:
- 1/2 lb large curd cottage cheese
- 1/2 lb whole milk yogurt with NO additives, drained
- 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped fine
- 1/2 cup celery leaves, chopped fine
- 1/4 c. well-cleaned, finely chopped scallions or 1/8 c. fresh chives
- 1 tsp salt, or to taste
- 1 Tb. dry mustard, ground
- 1/4 cup walnuts, chopped coarsely
- Finely chop, then grind in a mortar or food processor, the mint, celery, scallions &/or chives (should be not quite a puree).
- Blend cottage cheese and drained yogurt. What i think should really be used here is homemade fresh cheese.
- Mix herbs into dairy until thoroughly blended.
- Stir in salt and powdered mustard, and garnish with chopped walnuts.
I now have a better idea what shîrâz is, thanks to the glossary by Nawal Nasrallah in Annals of a Caliphs' Kitchens. It is drained, and therefore thick, mâst, which is sour yogurt made with rennet.
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- STUFFED EGGS
ORIGINAL
- Take as many eggs as you like, and boil them whole in hot water; put them in cold water and split them in half with a thread. Take the yolks aside and pound cilantro and put in onion juice, pepper and coriander, and beat all this together with murri, oil and salt and knead the yolks with this until it forms a dough. Then stuff the whites with this and fasten it together, insert a small stick into each egg, and sprinkle them with pepper, God willing.
----- 13th C. anonymous Andalusian Cookbook
- MY VERSION:
- 10 eggs
- cilantro, pureed
- 1/2 yellow onion
- 1 Tb ground coriander seed
- 1/4 to 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
- 2 Tb murri/soy sauce
- 2 Tb sesame oil
- salt to taste, if needed
- Put eggs into cold water, bring water to a boil, cover pan, remove from heat, and let stand 12 minutes
- Cover eggs with cold water, swirl, pour out warm water, add more cool water, etc.
- While eggs are cooking, puree cilantro, onion, pepper, and coriander seed.
- Beat spices with murri and oil.
- When eggs are cool, peel them, cut each in half, and separate yolks and white, saving both.
- Mash yolks, and mix in spice-murri blend, mashing and mixing well.
- Taste and add salt if needed.
- Fill white halves equally with yolk mix.
- Arrange halves on plate.
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