Books
This is not a comprehensive list, just what i've got in my library that i've found helpful. There are more books in my library with Ottoman fabrics and/or garments, but in some cases, i've only found one or two pictures in them, so i didn't list them. And there are some wonderful books out there i haven't seen yet.
- Yedida Kalfon Stillman, Norman A. Stillman.
Arab Dress, a Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times (Themes in Islamic Studies).
Brill Academic Publishers: Leiden, The Netherlands, 2000.
ISBN: 9004113738
2nd Rev edition; 2003; ISBN: 9004135936
(the second corrects some typos)
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This book presents a great overview of the clothing systems in use in Dar al-Islam, not including South and Southeast Asia. This book presents a wonderful basis from which to begin one's more indepth studies into a particular area of interest.
I have read the complaints of several people regarding what they felt were deficits in this book. Let me reiterate: It is an overview. It cannot present every detail of all clothing from al-Andalus to Central Asia, only an outline, a hint. If you are interested in the history and development of the clothing systems in these areas, then it is a valuable addition to your library. Note that it has a limited number of illustrations. For pictures of the clothing you will need to augment the data in this book with paintings, other items, fabric fragments, and surviving garments in art history books.
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Hülya Tezcan & Selma Delibas
translated, expanded and edited by J. M. Rogers
Textiles: Costumes, Embroideries and other Textiles
The Topkapi Saray Museum (Volume II)
Boston, 1986.
216 pages. 136 color plates. Bibliography.
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This book has glorious full color photos of a selection of garments from the Topkapi Serai, the palace of the sultan and his family in Istanbul. There are more that are not pictured here. The text notes that for the most part only the sultans' garments and those of his heirs were saved, and the museum purchased women's garments to round out their collection, especially for periods before the 19th century.
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Tahsin Öz
Turkish Textiles and Velvets, XIV-XVI Centuries (Vol. 1)
Turkish Press, Broadcasting, and Tourist Department
Ankara, 1950
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- Turk Kumas Kadifeleri, XVII-XIX (Vol. 2)
Istanbul, 1951
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Frustratingly in black-and-white, with a few re-drawn (not photographic) color plates. Additionally, i've only seen vol. 2 in Turkish. But the pictures and the English text are very informative, and there's an index of the plates in the back of volume 2 in English.
- Woman in Anatolia: 9000 Years of the Anatolian Woman
29 November 1993 - 28 February 1994, Topkapi Sarayi Museum
Turkish Republic Ministry of Culture, General Directorate of Monuments and Museums
ISBN 975-17-1186-X
- This is a great find. It covers women in art from prehistory to the 20th century. It has pictures of garments that i haven't seen in any other books - such as 16th c. don (white underpants)
- Nevber Gursu
The Art of Turkish Weaving: Designs Through the Ages
Redhouse Press, Istanbul: 1988.
- A nice survey of Ottoman textiles, including some garments, comparing them to other arts, such as ceramic tiles.
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Janet Arnold
"The Pattern of a Caftan, said to have been worn by Selim II (1512-20), from the Topkapi Sarayi Museum (Accession Number 2/4415), on display at the exhibition of Turkish art of the Seljuk and Ottoman periods, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, November 1967."
Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society, Victoria and Albert Museum
London. 1968, No. 2
- Yeah, that's a long title for a short article, only four pages, and only one of those pages is text. A second page has a redrawing from a painting of Mustafa Pasha wearing a similar robe, and a redrawing of the garment. The third and fourth pages are scale drawings on a grid of the pattern for the garment, including pockets!
- Metin And
Turkish Miniature Painting: The Ottoman Period
A Dost Publication, Istanbul, Revised Edition 1982.
- Typical of many Turkish books, the reproductions aren't very good, but there are a few SCA-period paintings of Ottoman women.
- Nicholas de Nicholay
The Nauigations into Turkie
London 1585
Da Capo Press, Amsterdam and New York: 1968.
- A facsimile of de Nicholay's account of his travels. The art is supposedly by him.
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Jennifer Scarce
Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East
Unwin Hyman, London, 1987
ISBN 0-7007-0344-6
- The title is misleading, as the book essentially covers the costumes of the Ottoman Empire, with only a few limited forays into other Near and Middle Eastern cultures. There is a brief chapter on Byzantium, and one on Central Asia, with some very interesting photos of costumes found in archaeological sites dating back to the 5th C. BCE and the 2nd C. BCE. And the book finishes with a limited chapter on Persia and Afghanistan. But the body of the text focuses on the Osmali Turks from the 15th century onward, as they gradually spread their control over a vast area from North Africa to East Europe to Central Asia. This is is "late period" for SCA purposes. It is illustrated with historical paintings, photos of people in their own clothing, photos of surviving cosutmes, and layout diagrams for recreating some of these garments. Useful if you're interested in Turkish garb.
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