Ottoman women's dress is now changing more noticeably.

• Notice the shaping and cutting of the sleeves in Levni's paintings.
• Women's shalvar now have longer and wider legs - but they are not gathered at the ankles - instead, the legs are about 1-1/2 times as long as the wearer's legs. This excess is tied below the knee and the legs are allowed to hang loosely.
• There is a new shape of hat, too. It sits on the head, but is low on one side where it curls up - how this was achieved i don't know.
• And diamonds have become fashionable in the Ottoman Empire.

1712 - Jean-Baptiste Vanmour

Vanmour travelled with the French Ambassador to Constantinople, Marquis Charles de Ferriol, who later published Vanmour's work in a hand colored folio as if it were his work, without Vanmour's name. Vanmour's Collection of 100 prints, first printed in 1712-13, represented different cultures of the Levant...

Notice the women are now wearing soft floppy hats that drape to one side of their heads. Notice also how the artist has added windows in a purely European style.

Harem woman relaxes, smoking a pipe

Haseki sultana - lead wife

Harem woman playing what may be a saz

1718 - Lady Mary Montagu

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, the wife of the English ambassador to Turkey, spent two years in Turkey in the early 1700's. During her stay she wrote many letters decribing the clothing and habits of Turkish women - including a form of innoculation against small pox. In the center, a European painter portrays her in Ottoman dress in 1718.

A Portrait of Laura Tarsi by Jean-Etienne Liotard presented as being Lady Mary

Protrait of Lady Mary by Johnathan Richardson

A lesser copy

The two flanking pictures are actually derived from a work from the 1740s by Jean-Etienne Liotard (see below), "A Portrait of Laura Tarsi", of which at least 3 versions exist by the artist himself, along with many lesser copies. They have long been mistakenly thought to be of Lady Mary.

1720-25 - Levni

Levni was an important Ottoman artist of the 18th century. He painted largely between 1720-25. Note that this is about 1-1/4 century after the SCA period ends. This means the slit sleeves on the enteri, the wide legged pants (which are actually NOT gathered at the ankle, but tied below the knee, the legs are so long), and the odd asymmetrical hats that curl up on one side are well out of period.

Woman in outdoor dress	Woman in outdoor dress
It look like her hair is in many braids tied together at the bottom.	Note her many braids. She holds a spool of thread in her left hand.	This woman wears her hair loose and fluffy
Note the multitude of braids on these female musicians. Their fingertips appear to be henna'ed.

1720 & 1745 - Abdullah Buhari

Abdullah Buhari was another important Ottoman artist of the 18th century. He painted largely between 1720-45. His work is perhaps less charming than Levni's, but it is still useful in showing changing Ottoman fashions.

Woman with Flower

Seated Woman with Servant

Woman in Indoor Winter Outfit

Two Women, one Seated in a Chair

1730s-1750s - Jean-Étienne Liotard

Swiss artist Jean-Étienne Liotard drew the pictures below with pastels, with their delicate, cool colors, and attractive but not crudely sexualized women in homey settings. Some, if not most, of his models were French noblewomen, and some of the items in the pictures were Liotard's own, which he used as props to create the setting.

Seated Woman in Gold and Silver	Greek Women Playing Mancala
At the Entrance of the Hammam (Baths)	Woman Seated on Blue Divan
Marie Adélaïde of France, daughter of King Louis XV, in Turkish dress, 1735	European Woman in the Hammam (Baths) with her Slave

The French School

The artists of the French School were French-trained Ottoman painters.

Note her loose fluffy hair

Note her many braids

Painting titled "Eastern Woman". Note her loose fluffy hair.

"Coming Back From the Orchard", by "Rafael"

Interestingly, late 18th century Ottoman clothing shows clear influence from the French: fabrics are similar - pastel, with tiny patterns of flowers and narrow stripes, there is a high-waisted look to the entari, and the enteri sometimes has deeply cut neckline.

Additionally, women are now often wearing their hair down and somewhat fluffy.

Husein Fazil bin Tahir Enderuni

The pictures below come from the 1793 Huban-name ve Zenan-name by miniature painter Husein Fazil bin Tahir Enderuni

Woman on Birthing Chair	Women in the Bath (Hammam)
Lady from Constantinople	Harem Women in the Palace Garden

Ottoman Artists

Clearly from the same time period, based on painting style, use of color, and details of the woman's dress, but i am not certain of their source...

Woman holding a fan

Other European Artists

I have not been able to ascertain the artist of these pictures, but they are clearly a continuity of the very late 18th century style.

Young Senior Suntana

Haseki Suntana

French artist Jean-Baptiste Hilaire (1751-1828), 1787

Muslim Spring Outfit Loose short-sleeved outer coat is lined with light fur and faced on the outside	Cariye: Female Slave	Muslim Summer Outfit Note how her braids are tucked up into her head covering.
Muslim Winter Outfit Loose short-sleeved outer coat is lined and faced on the outside with dark fur	Woman in Outdoor Coat (Feraçe)	Woman in Outdoor Coat (Feraçe)